Dates: 04-13 October 2021.

Once again Cymru were on the verge of securing a World Cup play-off place but faced two critical away matches before the final two home games. Prague and Tallinn were the destinations, two places I’ve been before, therefore I decided to make a bit more of the trip by flying into Brno, Czechia’s second city.

Penarth to Stanstead to Brno was straightforward enough and after a short stroll around the area near my apartment I had some goulash and joined the locals for a beer whilst watching a local band play at Jakubské náměstí (St. James Square).

It was a cool little set-up with a local bar serving beer and plenty of tall tables and stools dotted around the square:

The following day was crisp, cold but beautifully sunny so I headed to Náměstí Svobody (Liberty Square) for some breakfast:

Somewhat alarmingly the locals were on the beers at 10.30 in the morning! I opted for a flat white from a mini coffee van.

The Plague Column:

The good weather dictated that it would be wise to explore Hrad Špilberk (Špilberk Castle) and the surrounding park:

The view from the top of the castle hill with the Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary taking centre stage:

There’s a little museum and a viewing tower within the citadel walls and despite the incredibly strong winds I just about fired-off some pictures.

The Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in the distance:

Špilberk Castle in the peaceful citadel:

After a short read in the sunshine I headed to the so-called “Cabbage Market Square” at Zelný trh. There are regular markets here, selling fruit and veg and various juices and drinks. The tradition dates from the 12th century apparently.

“Cabbage Market Square” with the very grand Hotel Grandezza in the background:

The Kašna Parnas (fountain) is the square’s centre piece, built in the 17th century:

In the evening I took a stroll around the Park Lužánky area and then settled down near the National Theatre to watch the water mirror and mini fountains for a while:

Some street art back in the town square:

The following day’s weather was pretty miserable but Mozart didn’t seem to mind:

There was an arms fare going on somewhere in Europe and the locals showed their disgust by dying the water in the town square:

The nearby Brněnský orloj (astronomical clock) spits out a glass sphere at 11.00 each day:

The inclement weather meant it was an ideal day to take in Bunker 10-Z, an air raid shelter that now masquerades as a museum and hostel.

Lots of greenery around the town:

A fellow Cymro and friend of #WalesAway veteran and friend, Haley, lives in Brno. Haley put me in touch with him, Ralph, and we spent the evening drinking some great beer and talking all thing travel and football. A lovely evening.

After three nights in the cool Brno, it was time to move on to Prague for the football. These pumpkins had stood guard over my accommodation for the duration:

The three-hour train journey was straight forward and comfortable and I was greeted by fading light in Prague:

After dropping into the accommodation I headed out for a winter stroll, some food and to capture the wonderful-named Dancing House:

Fellow #WalesAway veteran Ian arrived in Prague the following day and we headed out to take in the crisp match day weather and do a bit of sight-seeing.

We did the obligatory crossing of Karlův most (Charles Bridge) and climbed up to Pražský hrad (Prague Castle). A beautiful early afternoon from the top:

In true #WalesAway fashion, there was a beer and wine festival in the castle grounds, so we sampled some of the offerings. The grapes used in the local wine is actually grown on-site. You can’t quiet make them out but they are definitely there:

Mike arrived not long after so the three of us headed for some pre-match beers, which were incredibly cheap as we headed away from the centre and strategically onto the street with the tram line to the stadium.

No idea:

The match was a sell-out and the live music gave the place a festival vibe:

The Fortuna Arena, home of Slavia Praha:

As for the game, we played some great stuff. One of the better attacking away performances in recent years against a decent side. Aaron Ramsey scored a cracker on the break, but not long after half time a howler of an own goal by Danny Ward made it 1-1. We then went 2-1 down only for Dan James to equalise with a precise low drive, also on the break.

We surprisingly pushed for a winner rather than sit back, but 2-2 was a fair result. A really good game with a great atmosphere.

Getting away from the ground was utter chaos and at times quite dangerous with people taking risks to get onto already full trams. Nevertheless, the three of us made it back unscathed, even with a local helping Ian vault a railing!

The flight the day after got us into Tallinn in the late afternoon, and after a short wait in the airport, three became four as Haley joined us from a separate flight from home.

Haley had secured a fantastic apartment bang in the centre of Tallinn so we headed straight out for food and drink. I remember the bar Hell Hunt from my last visit in 2019 with it’s good food and large selection of beers. Plus this amusing picture on the wall:

Our first full day in Tallinn was cold and crisp and filled with sight-seeing. I even managed to see some things I hadn’t back in 2019.

Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square):

Looking down on the old town from the Patkuli viewing platform:

One area I didn’t explore last time was the Tallinna Linnahall, an abandoned theatre built in the Soviet era for the 1980 Summer Olympics. It’s quite a stark area but does offer some interesting views:

Around the old town:

Sadly, it wasn’t what I hoped it would be…:

The “album cover” picture that is quickly becoming a #WalesAway obligation:

I captured this interesting lighting on our way to eat:

We ended the evening at the Depeche Mode Baar. Yes, a bar totally dedicated to the 80s/90s electronic band. You “just can’t get enough“…

Mike and I started match day with a great egg-based breakfast at a café near our accommodation. We then acquired some e-scooters to get us out to the TV tower a few miles out of the city centre.

Some of the scenery implied a hot Mediterranean vista:

And some didn’t!:

The Tallinna Teletorn:

The view from the top:

Mike, being brave, standing on a transparent floor tile.

A slightly dodgy bar had been chosen as the unofficial pre-match pub, but it had lovely (and patient) bar staff plus these babies:

Following the success of the e-scooters, Mike and I opted to travel to the A. Le Coq Arena using these wonderful things. Sadly, Mike’s phone made a break for freedom en route. It just about survived.

The A. Le Coq Arena, home of Flora Tallinn:

Unlike Tallinn, the game itself was largely forgettable. We scored early and then not a lot more happened. The win was all that mattered at this juncture though and we duly headed back to the dodgy bar for more flag shots and some Yma O Hyd.

Mike headed home the following day (via an e-scooter to the airport) whilst I was very lazy. I did spot this cool bit of artwork as Haley, Ian and I wandered the Balti Jaama Turg area:

Haley found a very good vegan restaurant the previous night. Setting aside my scepticism, I decided I should broaden my horizons and give it a whirl. I was pleasantly surprised with the beetroot ravioli followed by the fajita:

All-in-all, a lovely few days away in three relaxing and charming cities. I really should try Tallinn in the summer next time though!