Dates: 09-12 Ocotber 2024.

It had been over 18 years since I last visited Iceland, so when Cymru drew Iceland in the UEFA Nations League it presented a great opportunity for a re-visit.

Mike and I collected the hire car from Keflavík airport and immediately hit the road to explore, with the first stop being the Reykjalundur thermal area with its hot springs and thermal river. There was a thermal river and bathing area three kilometres up the mountain but we’d have to come back when we had towels.

Base camp:

Such an eggy smell!:

After a calorific hot chocolate we headed to the Golden Circle. First-up, Kerid (crater):

It was difficult not to stop every five minutes to take pictures:

More thermal waters en route to the geysers:

The famous Gullfoss waterfall:

After a hard day’s exploring we deserved a few refreshments at the excellently-named Bastard Bar.

Ahead of another day’s exploring, the following morning we loaded-up with coffee and some delicious pastries, including the delightful ‘Happy Marriage Cake’, or Hjónabandssæla. It’s made with a rhubarb jam and a tasty, crumbly oatmeal top.

Our first stop was Helgufoss, a small waterfall tucked away a short walk off the main road.

Helgufoss:

We climbed to the top of the waterfall which in hindsight perhaps wasn’t the wisest move, but we survived and then managed to navigate a marshy route back to the car.

Next stop, Þórufoss, an 18-meter high waterfall, apparently used in Game of Thrones. It was bitterly cold at this point with strong winds, but the view was magnificent.

Mike just had to stand on a little exposed snow-covered platform that jutted over the edge:

Our third waterfall stop was Öxarárfoss in the Thingvellir National Park:

The view from the climb above the waterfall:

On our way back to Reykjavík, and armed with towels, we re-visited the Reykjalundur thermal area. Now the walk to the bathing area from base camp was around three kilometres, but we thought that was as the crow flies. It took us around an hour and a quarter to reach the bathing area but at least it was scenic!

Mike’s chosen footwear of white trainers weren’t really suitable, but we ploughed onwards.

Every cloud of thermal steam in the distance gave us hope that we were near, only for it to be a false dawn.

At last, we’d arrived, although we weren’t expecting man-made structures:

There were even simple “changing areas” that involved just facing a wooden screen (just behind Mike to the right):

Neither of us were too bothered about the changing situation, with the exception of having to stand barefoot on snow/ice for far too long!

The water was fantastic though, with some parts much hotter than others, plus a few icey spots.

We could have stayed longer and if we’d had some beers we might well have, but it was a long walk back. One couple had the sense to bring a bottle of fizz and some cups.

During the day’s driving I’d done some research and discovered that evening we would have the best chance to see the northern lights. I hadn’t realised until later that it wasn’t just in Iceland that this was the case. It turns out most of northern Europe would get to see a spectacular light show too.

We collected, Ian, Haley and Simon from the apartment and headed back out to a spot that seemed to be recommended from my research.

Aurora Borealis:

I’m sure someone can explain this but we found that we could see the greens with the naked eye from most places, but only the camera lens picked up the reds and pinks, irrespective of how dark it was or how much ambient light was present. Either way, it was pretty spectacular a worth the effort to find a good spot.

The following day was match day, so we collected our tickets and strolled around the town centre.

The now-traditional ‘album cover’ picture:

Engey island in the distance:

Back in 2006 the Phallological Museum has moved out of the city but it had moved back at some point and gotten serious!

We ordered a flight:

Laugardalsvöllur, home of the Icelandic nation team:

The match was a tale of two halves, with Cymru going 2-0 up in style in the first half only to be outplayed in the second. We were lucky to come away with a point!

More lights on the walk back to the city centre, but this time with the Imagine Peace Tower light in the background. It’s a memorial to John Lennon and is situated on the island of Videy:

For out final full day, Mike and I planned to visit Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls about two hours north east of Reykjavík and then find some thermal waters to relax in.

But first, we bumped into some players after brunch!:

Obligatory swan pics on Tjörnin:

Hraunfossar and Barnafoss are two beautiful waterfalls within a few hundred metres of each other. Unsurprisingly, the photos just don’t do the places justice.

Hraunfossar:

Barnafoss:

Research into geothermal baths led us to Krauma near Reykholt. The water was beautiful while cold beers were delivered to us pool-side:

We chatted with several friendly locals and I even spent some time explaining the background as to why Cymru’s four largest professional clubs ply their trade in the English pyramid to one very interested local semi-pro footballer!

We’d booked a posh restaurant a few days earlier and just about made it back in time for the 20.00 reservation. We started with martinis and fermented shark, and I opted for the catch of the day.

The martini and fish were excellent while the shark was nothing if not memorable:

We moved on to a cool bar with live music where we sank a couple of 11.5% Icelandic stouts and got chatting to a Canadian airline pilot and an American solo traveller called Jessie.

The Dillon Whiskey Bar a few doors down was on our list, and our two new friends joined us. The place was rocking, with cross-dressers aplenty and a “DJ” playing music from a tablet computer. It all got a bit blurry after that, but we managed about four hours sleep before precariously heading back to the airport the following morning.

The trip was a superb whistle-stop tour, cramming the best Iceland has to offer into a short few days.