Dates: 18-30 April 2024.

Vietnam had been on my list since before COVID, and with limited direct flights per week, I planned for two weeks away with the following itinerary:

• three nights in Hànội
• one overnight train
• one night in Đồng Hới
• two nights in Huế
• one night in Đà Nẵng
• two nights in Hội An
• three nights in Hồ Chí Minh City

After a straightforward 12-hour flight from Heathrow I headed straight out to explore my surroundings near the famous Train Street, where trains trundle past tourists merely inches away.

Train Street:

Theoretically, you’re only allowed on Train Street if you’re stopping somewhere for food or drink, and locals will offer to seat you at their place to satisfy the security staff. I hovered near the southern entrance and it didn’t take long for an enthusiastic guy to insist I follow him.

I stopped for a quick beer and soaked-up the atmosphere, but as there was no sign of a train, I went for a walk, heading to Hoàn Kiếm Lake with the sun going down.

An orange tree and the Emperor Ly Thai To Monument Statue:

The Morning Sunlight Bridge leading to the Ngoc Son Temple:

An early night was on the cards so I headed back to Train Street for a bowl of phở and a beer before bed. The chatty bar owner insisted a train was on its way and he wasn’t lying.

The tension was palpable:

Every so often the barman would insist two girls and I join him in a shot of some random flavoured drink – some were nice, some were rough! A video of the passing train.

I’d arranged a day trip to Hạ Long Bay for my second day, which involved an early start and a coach ride to Hạ Long via a place where the locals catch oysters and harvest pearls.

1,000,000 VND = £30:

From what I could gather, they remove enough of the pearl material and re-plant consolidated amounts back into a given oyster. It then grows and solidifies before being harvested as actual pearls.

Painstaking work:

Some pics from the boat on the outbound trip:

The next stop was Ti Tốp island where we climbed a couple of hundred steps to the top before chilling on the beach below. I was soaked though for most of my time in Vietnam, so I was glad to take my shirt off on the beach at the end!

Views from the top of the rock:

Next-up was a speed boat ride:

The final stop was the Sửng Sốt cave, one of the most spectacular and largest grottoes in the bay. The approach was particularly spectacular too:

Around the cave:

The boat ride back to Hạ Long was nice and relaxed. I sat on the top deck, soaking up the sun and sipping cold Vietnamese beer. I recall thinking how lucky I was at that moment.

I dozed for the majority of the coach trip back to Hànội but I arrived hungry, and I wanted to sample “Beer Street”, or to give its proper name: Ta Hien Street. It’s a narrow pedestrianised street in the Old Quarter lined with rows of tiny plastic stools and tables that seem to spill out from every doorway. Beer (and food) is cheap and quick to arrive, all to the backdrop of human traffic and loud electronica!

Beer Street in all its vibrancy:

I strolled back to my hotel via the seemingly never-ending night market and snapped a picture of the train line bridge that feeds Train Street, just to show how much it dominates that part of town:

My third day was dedicated to exploring Hànội and it started with a stroll and breakfast before wandering the old quarter:

It would become normal to me over the coming days but the amount of traffic, and motorbikes in particular, on the road was incredible:

Arty:

Next up was west Hànội via an iced coffee, something that I really got into on this trip. En route was a bloke taking his cock for a walk:

The hazy view north over West Lake:

Hồ Chí Minh’s mausoleum and the city flag tower:

More Train Street action when having a cooling beer:

A storm was forecast so I thought I’d grab a cocktail on one of the city’s roof-top bars. So much traffic, but no hint of a collision:

There’s a storm brewing, with some of the most surprising fork lightening I’d ever seen:

After a cocktail and G&T it was time for food…just as the storm really hit! Despite only needing to walk 30 seconds around the corner I still managed to get quite wet. The wind rose, the lightening increased and the thunder volume cranked up. People continued about their evening though; walking and cycling around barefoot in plastic ponchos! A quick clip.

After some delicious (and cheap) food while watching the crazy weather I had to brave the short walk home. However, half way back the rain picked-up significantly and I sought refuge in a doorway. Thankfully, the guy inside (what turned out to be a spa) beckoned me in and gave me a bottle of water and a poncho!

So much water:

Irrespective of the time of night, places were full and serving food:

My final day in Hànội would end in catching the overnight train, but until then, I explored the French Quarter.

There was a fascinating warren of lanes in and around the southern end of the train line:

Bảy Mẫu Lake:

The VTC Tower, a man harvesting coconuts, and Hồ and Vlad (Monument of Uncles Hồ and Tôn):

Once last evening in and around “Beer Street” for food and refreshments:

I had a slight scare whilst attempting to get on the overnight train: everyone else appeared to have a paper ticket with a QR code, while I only had an electronic ticket. The ticket women shook her head at me and just said to wait…

After what seemed like an age, and several hundred passengers later, I enquired again. This time it was wait, someone will be here soon. I guess it was because I booked online with a third party provider, but a guy did turn up with a paper ticket with my name on, and he ushered me through and into my compartment, complete with a goodie pack of water and snacks. Panic over!

Cosy:

It turns out I would have the compartment to myself for most of the eight hour journey to Đồng Hới. A Vietnamese women turned-up about three quarters of the way through. It was comfortable and warm, and I happily read a few chapters of my book in between taking in the sight of suburban Hànội with its many level crossings.

The train trundled at best for the first hour but eventually sped up to something resembling quick. However, unlike the overnight train from Chisinau to Bucharest, trying to sleep on this train was like trying to sleep on a rollercoaster! You could feel every twist and turn and every up and down. It was actually quite funny how bad it was – and the poor compartment of Australian women next door were on for 14 hours!

I set an alarm lest I miss my stop, but a staff member woke me up half an hour before Đồng Hới to change the sheets, presumably for some passengers further down the line. I estimate I got about three hours sleep at best – it was an experience!

After a quick check-in and shower I headed out to find some socks to cover my sore Achilles heels. I managed to stumble upon an incredibly enthusiastic and helpful shop owner who wouldn’t rest until she found a couple of suitable pairs!

The reason for dropping by Đồng Hới was to visit the Phong Nha national park for some water-based action and some caving. Last to arrive at the Dark Cave, I skipped the changing room and stripped-off out in the open to switch into swim shorts. I don’t think anyone saw anything…

Zip line action:

The Dark Cave, so called because it is one of the few caves that have had no artificial lighting installed. There was a lot of cold water wading and crawling through tunnels to reach a cave full of mud. Our guide even pointed out some of these odd looking almost-translucent spiders.

The Dark Cave:

After the cave, the group of us had an hour to muck about in kayaks, on paddle boards and small zip lines. Food was next , and I got to know a nice bunch of people; a French couple and two Polish guys.

Next-up was a stunning boat ride along the Con river to the Phong Nha Cave. There was a very Apocolypse Now vibe about the place.

Along the Côn river:

Phong Nha Cave is a relic system of the historic Hồ Chí Minh trail which, during the US/Vietnam war, served as a secret hiding place for floating bridges that were only brought out at night to avoid targeted bombings. It also once served as a hospital, with weapons installed at the entrance.

A city roughly the population of Swansea, Đồng Hới was very quite so I went for a stroll before grabbing food.

Boats on the Nhật Lệ river:

The Cầu Rào river with the Lê Thành Đồng bridge in the distance:

It was back on the Reunification Express the next morning for the short hop to Huế (pronounced “Hway”). Unlike the overnight leg, there was fresh food carts doing the rounds. This wasn’t your GWR offering of crisps and flapjacks though. This was vats of steaming rice and phở, amongst other local delights. It was a shame I’d already eaten…

The two days in Huế managed to be hottest days of my trip, with the mercury hitting 38c. Perfect weather for tomb raiding, right…?

The Imperial City was first on the itinerary. It’s was built in the early 19th century by and for the last royal dynasty of Vietnam, the Nguyen Dynasty.

Around the Imperial City:

The citadel within the city:

Tịnh Tâm Lake:

I continued the epic walk by crossing the Perfume River and walking along its southern bank with the aim of checking out the boat trip company.

Along the Perfume River:

I found the boat company and pinged-off a WhatsApp message to them for the following day, and then put my feet up with an iced coffee and a few chapters of my book as the sun slowly set.

I opted to walk home, which was arguable a mistake as it took over an hour!

Nice evening for it though:

Cầu bán nguyệt Bến Me:

After far too much walking the previous day, I hired a scooter and braved the suburbs of Huế in search of tombs and abandoned waterparks.

First stop, the Mausoleum of Emperor Khai Dinh:

As statuesque as some of the Crows’ defending this season:

Next-up was Thuỷ Tiên Lake and the abandoned water park that the likes of Instagram has made fairly famous.

I’d read that the locals often hang around the entrances in order to look after your vehicle or to offer their guidance, so I was ready for something on arrival. I reached the south-east entrance and came across a gang of bikers and a blocked road ahead. After a brief chat with the bikers it seemed that the road was closed but for a fee they’d escort me to the park. Although outnumbered I didn’t feel in any danger, but I didn’t want to just agree without checking out the other entrance.

The north-east entrance was at the end of a little village, and after some off-roading I got onto a footpath and could see the tell-tale dragon’s head in the distance.

Predictably, the unofficial car park was attended by a parking attendant and a refreshments vendor. The cost of parking was pennies so I didn’t quibble.

The place was quiet eerie, but there were a handful of other people having a nose around plus some arty types sketching the dragon:

A view from the mouth of the dragon:

Bit of a random one, but definitely worth a visit. More so, considering various sources on the internet suggest the dragon structure may not be around for much longer.

After a bit more off-roading it was on to the Mausoleum of Emperor Tu Duc via some fun twisty lanes. This place was quiet with not that much to take in to be honest. I escaped just as a school trip arrived.

It was time for food and a relaxing boat ride, and I made great time, feeling like an expert in negotiating the local road, despite the odd native driving the wrong way down a given carriageway in an effort to switch sides!

Delicate foods and stunning sunsets:

The ride was pleasant enough with a friendly and knowledgeable host. I just wanted to chill though. Shame the beverage on offer was warm tea rather than cold beer…

Thien Mu Pagoda, the largest in town:

Back on the scooter I crossed the Perfume river to get a closer look at the Thien Mu Pagoda:

The parking situation at the pagoda and nearby markets looked chaotic but was actually very efficient. An attendant gestured where to stop, scribbled something on the little windshield and handed me a ticket. When I returned he compared the scribble with his watch and charged me a few thousand dong.

After dropping my trusty scooter off I couldn’t resist visiting the tourist-trap DMZ Bar & Restaurant, with the expected Vietnam War paraphernalia decorating the place. Good westernised food and local craft ale though.

The ceiling:

I had originally planned to get the train from Huế to Đà Nẵng but some research threw up the option of taking a ride in an old United States jeep. However, there weren’t enough people signed-up to it so I opted for a guided bike trip via the famous 21km Hải Vân Pass, which I inexplicable didn’t consider when building my itinerary.

I met my guide and hilariously handed my large suitcase to the support vehicle…a scooter! Apparently the two support people were going to take my case on a scooter to my hotel!

First stop on the epic journey was to see some water buffalo, followed by some off-roading along the river out of the city My guide thought I was crazy for not wearing more clothes:

The next stop was a quiet waterfall for a cooling swim and a chill:

For lunch the destination was Lăng Cô beach. It was largely deserted except for some banging tunes and karaoke on one of the beachside bars!

Beautiful and empty:

Next-up: the 500m climb via the Hải Vân Pass.

Looking back at Lăng Cô beach and village from the bottom of the pass:

A short video of the Reunification Express that I’m very glad I wasn’t on!

Climbing the pass, love a good hairpin bend:

A short video of me taking one hairpin very well and one not so well!

The views from half a kilometre up:

We chilled-out with an iced coffee and a chat at, I think, the Turtle Stone Café:

Before going to my hotel, the tour included a visit to view the Marble Mountains:

The view was from the top of Tam Thai Pagoda and Huyền Không Cave visitor centre:

A moody shot from street level:

It’s fair to say I was tired, tanned and grubby by the time I got to my hotel, but it was one of the better ones and after a shower I headed out for food, ale and wander. The beer at the Heart of Darkness Brewery was excellent but came with Cardiff-esque price tags!

The view of the Hàn River from my balcony:

The famous Dragon Bridge that apparently spits “fire” at 21.00, which I missed!:

With taxi prices being so cheap I travelled the 30km from Đà Nẵng to Hội An in comfort for about £12. Incredible!

Welcome to Hội An and the UNESCO-preserved old town:

The famous Japanese Bridge:

As pretty as the old town is, with it’s charming warren of alleyways, ancient buildings and bustling market, it is clearly a honey trap for tourists.

A colourful stroll and lunch:

My hotel was on one of the several islets that make up Hội An. The view of the Bồn River and the islet in the distance that is home to “Memories Land”:

The following day was a day trip to Chàm Island, via some snorkelling, with the aim to have a day of mainly relaxing.

Arty pier shot:

The first stop was to check out the fishing village with buckets of sad-looking crustaceans, and a pagoda:

I hadn’t snorkelled since I was a kid, and even then it was in the shallows of tourist beaches. This time we jumped off the boat in open waters and it was so much better. I spotted several species of fish and a “sea cucumber”.

After all that exercise it was time to eat and chill on the edge of a quiet and beautiful beach:

The local monkeys are quiet infamous apparently, as they will often steal food:

Back in Hội An, it was another warm evening, ideal for a stroll and an egg coffee:

I had been measured-up for custom-made leather sandals the day before, so I collected them and bought a “Good Morning Vietnam” t-shirt for good measure. The sandals were perfect until I got back home to Cymru where they were clearly too big. The Vietnamese heat has swollen my feet! Luckily they were only about £20.

After food I thought I’d give “Memories Island” a try. It’s billed as a theme park island, but I went specifically for that evening’s show. There was music, dance and a storyline that I just about understood despite the lack of subtitles. Something a bit different!

Around the park:

The enormous outdoor stage:

It was an early start the day after as I got a shuttle bus to Đà Nẵng airport for the short flight to Hồ Chí Minh City.

The mundane and the grand, Independence Palace and the French colonial city hall built in the early 1900s, now the headquarters of the People’s Committee (with Uncle Hồ saluting in the foreground):

The magnificent 19th-century Saigon Central Post Office:

It was delightfully cool inside:

Nearby is the peaceful Hồ Chí Minh City Book Street, where I dutifully bought a book and settled in for some chapters in a coffee shop. Unfortunately, it was the best of times, it was the worst of times. I quickly realised I couldn’t make any sense of Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities.

Book Street:

A stroll along the Sài Gòn River:

Unlike Hànội, which felt very low-rise, HCMC loves a high-rise:

I fancied trying an ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) bar that evening and watched some football with some familiar food. It was light when I went in, but dark when I left. On exiting the bar I was “attacked” by a gaggle of human kittens!

It seems I was in the heart of the “girly bar” district. Which is not the red light district. Scores of girls in tight-fitting dresses and high heels instantly put their phones down and greeted me with a chorus of “hello, hello”. I don’t mind admitting I was mildly terrified as they approached en masse and tugged at my t-shirt!

It turns out these girly bars are fairly innocuous, you just buy drinks for the girls and they keep you company. If I’d had backup I may have tried one!

Another city that never seems to sleep:

It was an early start the next day as I’d signed-up to a tour of the Củ Chi tunnel complex, two hours away by bus, but an hour by my chosen method: speedboat. The complex is an extensive labyrinth of underground tunnels that stretch all the way to the Cambodian border. It was built from 1948 during the war against the French. It served as a means of communication between villages and helped the Vietnamese to evade scouting French soldiers.

Within a few minutes, the scenery changed from cityscape to jungle-scape:

Our guide was great fun: he was knowledgeable but was also careful to tell us what films to watch and not watch about the French and US wars. All in hushed, conspiratorial tones.

I had a go in this hiding spot, which just smelt a bit damp:

Booby traps:

There were several tunnels that we could try crawling through, all of which had been bored-out to be passable. I managed the shortest one, around ten metres, and that was plenty!

Tunnel entrance and lookout point:

Back in HCMC, I jumped in a taxi and headed to investigate Chợ Bình Tây, a covered market:

The whole area was an assault on the senses, and strewn with all sorts:

I’m sure he meant ‘v’ for peace:

That evening I hunted down one micro brewery only to be disappointed that they were about to close. A happy piece of serendipity as this place was much better:

After a few excellent beers and some snacks I got chatting with an Irish guy at the bar, and this turned into far too many beers, followed by swathes of street food at 03.00!

The next day was my last in Vietnam and last on my list was the War Remnants Museum. All the reviews for this museum were full of praise for its content and quality. In truth, it was excellent but also quite harrowing.

The museum covered both the Indochina war against the French and the war against the US, and pulled no punches with its commentary. The room with photographs and details of victims of ‘agent orange’ (a chemical used primarily to eliminate forest cover and kill crops) was heart-breaking. Children born in this century can still exhibit physical and mental impairments caused by the chemical.

The trip home comprised of a short hop to Hànội before the 12-hour flight into Heathrow. Upon leaving the airport it took less than 60 seconds for me to wish it was still 35c and 90% humidity!

Vietnam was brilliant. Low rise, jungle, beach, high rise, food, traffic, mopeds carrying families and widescreen TVs, chaos, kayaking, trains somehow better and worse than TfW, old-world-meets-new-world. Just marvellous. I could have stayed another two weeks and still not done everything I wanted to. Vietnam – cảm ơn!